Atera

77 Worth St., New York, 10013, USA | Contemporary

Counter dining can sometimes be a cramped affair, but fortunately, this one is spacious enough to leave plenty of elbow room, allowing guests to enjoy the immersive experience in comfort. The kitchen, led by Danish chef Ronny Emborg, runs with a quiet tranquility that forms a sharp contrast to the boisterous playlist, which helps keep the room from feeling stuffy. The menu comprises numerous beguiling courses with global accents, featuring subtle flavors and deftly weaving together both delicacy and richness. A dish of minute, briny shigoku oysters strikes an intriguing balance between vegetal and fruit notes when matched with kiwi and cucumber, while a perfectly cooked morsel of halibut is bolstered with an impeccable buttery shrimp bisque.